Exploring Phoksundo

This blog tells the story of Phoksundo National Park. Our purpose for visiting Dolpa was purely academic. However, when we arrived, we could not resist the desire to explore the beauty the place holds, especially Phoksundo Lake. The locals told us it would take 2 to 3 days of walking to reach the lake. Though we hadn’t planned for trekking, nor had we proper shoes or preparation, the two of us decided to make the journey. I had an exam in one week, yet leaving Dolpa without seeing the place did not seem right.

So, on June 8th, we started our journey at nine from Suligadh, accompanied by a local boy working as a game scout in Phoksundo National Park.

Journey Timeline

• Suligadh to Syangta: 3 hours (lunch at a local restaurant)
• Syangta to Chepka: 1 hour 15 minutes
• Chepka to Ryanchi: 5 hours (overnight stay at a motel in Ryanchi)
• Ryanchi to Taporicha Boarding School: 1 hour 30 minutes (lunch)
• Taporicha Boarding School to Phoksundo: 4 hours 30 minutes

The time, however, varies from person to person. For example, when locals said it would take half an hour to reach a place, it took us one and a half hours. Conversely, when locals said it would take 4 hours to reach our destination, we made it in one and a half hours. The most challenging part of the journey was from Chepka to Ryanchi. Locals said it would only take 2 hours, but it took much longer. There was a moment when we wanted to turn back. The topography was complicated and completely different from what we usually see. There was neither phone service nor human settlement in between. Every part of our bodies ached with pain and tiredness, and we regretted thinking we could make the walk.

Our Experience

When we reached Taporicha School the next day and found they had phone service, that was the best moment for me. The anticipation and excitement when the phone connected, and the happiness when I heard my mother’s voice, were indescribable. These journeys make you realize the importance of family and what home truly means. Maybe it was the happiness of hearing the voice of loved ones.

The 3-hour trek at Rigmo, a very steep and straight mountain, claimed to be the riskiest and most challenging part of our journey, did not frighten me. However, one could not ignore that one slip could be fatal. All the regrets we had during the trip seemed to disappear when we first viewed the waterfall and caught a glimpse of Phoksundo Lake. Then the final hour walk passed so quickly.

The place explains why people undertake such an arduous journey. It was so pure, calm, and serene. There was a moment of clarity when sitting beside Phoksundo Lake and gazing into its deep waters. It should definitely be on your list of must-visit places. Yes, the journey is challenging, but it is worth it.

Photo by Bibek Raj Shrestha on Unsplash